According to the latest FBI Crime in the United States Report, 162,547 bicycles were reported stolen in 2016. While this number is shocking, I’m sure it only represents a fraction of bicycles actually stolen, since many bike thefts go unreported. Fortunately for cyclists, devices like the Apple AirTag and the Android Tag can assist cyclists and law enforcement in recovering stolen bikes quickly.
I pulled the tab to activate the battery. The AirTag played a sound to indicate activation.
My phone detected the AirTag and I simply tapped connect on the phone screen.
I gave my AirTag a custom name, chose an emoji and registered the AirTag with my Apple ID.
Just to make sure everything was working, I checked the FindMy app to ensure the app showed the location of my AirTag. More details on setting up your AirTag can be found at this link: AirTag – Apple Support
The final step was to place my AirTag on my bike where a thief would not quickly locate and disable or discard my tracker.
Now if my bicycle ever goes missing, I can track its latest location on a map in the app. For less than $30 for an Apple AirTag or an Android Tag, it is a good investment for recovering your bike if it is stolen. Will it really work? Checkout Catching a Bike Thief with AirTags on YouTube.
For years I’ve held off on publishing a step-by-step guide on how to unlock Garmin maps because I didn’t want to encourage software piracy. However, I like to have a backup of my route and Garmin maps on the SD card in my device just in case of a glitch. For cyclists that have a legitimate reason for unlocking their Garmin maps, this guide is for you.
Caution – Do not attempt this unless you fully understand the process and your computer is fully protected from virus and malware.
Create a Garman folder on an SD card
Locate gimgunlock.exe on the internet and download it into the Garmin folder on the SD card.
Locate the file gmapprom.img on your Garmin device and copy it into the Garmin folder on the SD card.
Drag and drop the gmapprom.img onto gimgunlock.exe to unlock the maps.
Rename gmapprom.img to gmapsupp.img on the SD card.
Test the SD card to ensure that the files are in fact unlocked.
If you are considering using this method to pirate maps from Garmin without paying for them, DON’T! It simply isn’t worth it considering how costly a mistake can be. Especially when you can buy legitimate maps for just $19.99. Check it out at Cycle Map North America at Garmin.com.
A group Yin Yoga class was the next stop on my yoga journey. Yin Yoga is a slower-paced and meditative form of yoga as compared to other yoga disciplines. The poses are held for longer periods of time. In my case we spent about one minute on each pose.
The 75 minute class was designed to target the body’s connective tissues, rather than the muscles. It was billed as the perfect complement to athletic training and recovery plans. While I don’t know if that is true, I do know that I did enjoy the class and I continue to see improvement in my flexibility, so I signed up to continue classes.
My yoga experience reminds me a lot of my cycling experience. I returned to cycling as an adult because I felt it was a beneficial sport for my health that I could continue into old age (I am now into my seventies and still riding strong). I feel the same about yoga. It is a beneficial activity/exercise for my body that I can hopefully continue until the day I die. And I’m enjoying my journey with yoga as much as I enjoy my journey on my bicycle. Stay tuned, I’m sure I will have more to say about yoga and my journey in the future.
My private yoga evaluation paid off immediately. The yoga instructor noticed that I had lost some of my range of motion in my right arm resulting from being struck by a car several years ago while cycling (see “My Biggest Challenge“). In addition, she noted that I was more flexible on the left side of my body than the right side. She showed me how I could modify the yoga exercises/poses and use yoga tools to accommodate my specific situation.
While I would have loved to continue the private lessons indefinitely, I only had six lessons and I was destined to join a group yoga class. However, the private lesson gave me the specific training I needed for my situation and physical limitations. More importantly, it gave me the confidence that I need not worry that I would be doing my yoga poses differently than the others in the class.
In addition, while my instructor didn’t develop a special yoga routine for cyclists, she did point out the poses that were the most beneficial to offset the negative impact of the repetitive use of the same muscle groups used in cycling. After only six lessons, I felt better and could see a noticeable improvement in my flexibility. While it might only be my imagination, I feel like I’m cycling better too.
I’ve been cycling for decades. While I’m not a world class cyclist, I consider myself a strong cyclist. However, my increased strength hasn’t come without a cost. Although the repetitive motion of cycling has strengthened some muscles groups, it has also weakened others. As a result, overtime as my strength has increased, my flexibility has been decreasing.
In essence, it is the same reason cyclists have skinny arms. While our sport helps to develop strong calf, thigh and glut muscles, it doesn’t work the biceps and triceps nearly as much. But it doesn’t end there, our whole muscle structure is impacted by cycling both in a positive and negative way.
The first step to resolving the negative impact of cycling on the body is to identify the problem. To help me identify the negative impact of cycling on my body, I started with three private sessions with a yoga instructor. The first session was to evaluate my flexibility. While this approach is a bit more expensive than simply starting yoga classes, I was hoping it would pay off by having the yoga instructor develop a yoga routine that would target my cycling specific problem areas.
Back in December 2020 I wrote a short post about my Bafang Chainline Problem and how I fixed my chain from dropping off the front chainring. It was a simple solution. I reinstalled the front derailleur and adjusted the derailleur limiter screws to perfectly align the front derailleur with the chainring. The derailleur served as a chain drop guard to keep the chain from falling off the chainring. While this solution cured the chain drop problem and I was able to use all the gears on my rear cluster, I was getting an annoying chain rub on the front derailleur on my top (highest) and bottom (lowest) gears.
Although I could live with the chain rub on short rides, on longer rides it was becoming unbearable and I avoided using the top and bottom gears. With the Bafang Monster Bike Build I wanted to solve this problem. I was hoping I could adjust the Shimano XT indexed triple chainring front shifter to micro adjust the front derailleur just enough for a top, middle, and bottom gear range shift. However, the index shifter cable pull was too long because the derailleur limiter screws were significantly limiting the derailleur movement to stop the chain drop.
To solve the problem, I used an old school SunRace SLM10 Friction Thumb Shifter, approximately $15 for a set. Now when I hear the chain rubbing on the front derailleur, I just give the thumb shifter a little nudge to make a micro adjustment on the front derailleur to eliminate the noise. And I don’t have to worry about the chain dropping off the front chainring because the front derailleur limiter screws will not let the derailleur move far enough to drop the chain. I can use all nine gears on the rear cluster with no chain drops and no chain rub on the front derailleur. Problem solved!
I haven’t posted for a few weeks because I’ve been focused on a new bicycle project. A few years ago, I outlined my step-by-step build of an e-bike using a Bafang 750W BBS02 mid drive motor kit and a Cannondale road bike, You can see the details of the build here at “Bafang E-bike Conversion”. I’ve been extremely happy with the bike since, and I’ve ridden it more than a thousand miles without a problem.
Although I really enjoy riding the Bafang, my Bafang and Cannondale Synapse Neo 1 e-bikes are very similar bikes (see “BUILD OR BUY AN E-BIKE”), so I felt it was time to diversify my e-bikes. Since I enjoy Rail Trail riding, and the trails I ride can get very slippery after it rains, I decided to move the bafang motor off the road bike with narrow tires and onto a Cannondale mountain bike with the widest tires I could fit on the bike. I also added racks so the e-bike could be used on multi-day touring rides.
After a few more test rides to work out any problems with the build and to determine the range of the bike and battery, I plan to give it the ultimate test by riding the C&O (Chesapeake & Ohio Canal National Historical Park) and the GAP (Great Allegheny Passage), a 334.5-mile ride from Washington, DC to Pittsburg PA (COGAP). I have ridden this wonderful traffic-free route approximately 12 times in the past, but never on an e-bike.
It’s always an adventure that I would highly recommend to cyclists of all skill levels. Here is my planned itinerary. So, stay tuned to hear how I make out on the e-bike. Or even better, join me on the ride.
I’ve been using the Kool Stop bicycle tire jack ever since I first learned about it when I was cycling across the United States, see Day 35 – Silsbee, TX to De Ridder, LA – Cycle Across America. It is a fantastic tool for mounting tight fitting bicycle tires. While I would still highly recommend the Kool Stop as a great compact tool to stuff in a seat bag for quick puncture repair when touring, in my home shop I’ve switched to a generic plier-like tire jack pictured below.
The plier-like tire jack makes grabbing the tire bead and rim a faster and easier one-handed operation. However, although the plier-type jack is easier to use, I don’t think I would ever carry this bulky tool in a seat bag for emergency tire repairs. Nevertheless, I found it easier to use while servicing my tires in my home shop.
If you struggle with mounting bicycle tires like I do, I highly recommend the Kool-Stop Tire Bead Jack or the generic plier-like tire jack. Pick one or both up at your local bike shop. If your local bike shop doesn’t have them (many bike shops don’t), they can easily be found online.
Full disclosure first. I rarely do product reviews. When I do, it is always of a product that I chose for my own use and paid for with my own money. I do not benefit in any way by a product review. I share my opinion of a product with the visitors to this website so they might benefit from my experience with the product.
With that said, you may have noticed in my post Don’t Forget to Service Your Bicycle Pump that I use a Topeak Road Morph Pump. While this pump looks like other mini pumps, the Road Morph transforms smoothly into a floor pump. This compact, easy-to-carry pump has all the features of my shop pump with a head that fits both Presta and Schrader valves, an in-line pressure gauge that reads up to 140 PSI, a flexible hose, T-type handle and fold-out foot pad.
While you might think that a full featured pump like this will be big, it is barely noticeable on the downtube of my bike in the picture below. If you struggle with a small but ineffective mini pump consider the Topeak Road Morph. My Topeak Road Morph pump was essential to me on my coast-to-coast adventure and is still an essential piece of equipment for me today.
When I replace the sealant in my tubeless tires, I find it is also a good time to service my bicycle pump. Like most touring cyclist, I prefer the reliability of a pump over C02 cartridges because I just never know how many CO2 cartridges I’ll need. For example, while cycling coast to coast across America, I set a personal record with four flat tires in one day. With a good reliable bicycle pump, I can inflate unlimited tires and never run out of air.
However, without regular service, my pump might not work when I need it, especially after not being used over the winter. The seal on the plunger tends to dry out resulting in air leakage inside the pump. Simply servicing my pump in the spring helps to prevent this problem.
Servicing a pump is simple. Disassemble the pump and remove the plunger. Clean the inside barrel and the plunger with a silicon spray like WD-40 spray lubricant. I don’t use petroleum-based products in fear that it will damage any rubber seals. Finally, I apply a generous amount of silicone lubricating grease to the seal. After reassembling the pump I test it to make sure it works properly and hopefully I’m good until next season.